Naccel: a[N accel]erated Pipcount

 

by Nack Ballard

 

Count -- On Me?

 

"Twelve plus fifteen plus six in my board, that's thirty-three, plus sixteen for the two on my eight point, that's forty-nine, plus nine equals fifty-eight, and fourteen equals seventy-two, plus three on the... what IS that, the 'twenty-two' point, is sixty-six, added to.... Oh no, what was it again?..."  I mumbled aloud.

 

"I wasn't really paying attention... sixty-six?" my doubles partner suggested dubiously.  "You had just counted the checker on their eleven point", he added helpfully.

 

"Well, yeah, thanks, I know that... but it's the ANCHOR that is sixty-six.  I forgot the running count I was supposed to add it TO..."  Here I go again, I thought... now I'll have to start all over again for the tie-breaking count.  "What were my first two tries?"

 

"Hmm....they differed from each other by eleven... I remember that..." his voice faded as quickly as his grin.

 

I could already feel my equity shrinking.  "Well, let's start again with what we know.  What did we get for the count on their side, 130-what?"

 

"I know it was my JOB to remember the counts", he savored the word like a sour plum.  "But when you asked me about your last pipcount, it all went out of my head."

 

"I wasn't asking you, I was asking myself".  Hmm, that didn't come out right.

 

"Well, my ability to distinguish rhetoric isn't what it used to be, nor is my memory.  I can't even recall why I paid both halves of our entry fee."

 

I was no longer sure myself of the reason.  I wanted to quip back on his misuse of the word "rhetoric", but someone had to pull the team back together.

 

"Okay, LOOK..."  Pretending I was still in charge was the only card I had left to play.  "You count Red and I'll count Black; we'll do it really carefully this time, and whatever we get, we'll just go with THAT."

 

... Sound familiar?  Well, maybe your presence of mind is not quite as absent as mine, but might not such a calamity occur if you find yourself deprived of enough sleep, or otherwise lacking focus?

 

Counting pips costs time, and drains our reserve of energy.  It is important to be able to stay intent on the positional considerations, which, if assessed correctly, will more likely guide us to correct plays and cube decisions.

 

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Following a Dream

 

With the good of the human race in mind, then -- well okay, I admit it was because I wearied of my own incompetence -- I actually dreamt (literally) a new method of pipcount.  In my dream, I was playing on Gamesgrid, clicking on the pipcount button (that wonderful online crutch), when out popped a cyberboard with the four quadrants taking turns bulging out at me.

 

The next morning, while driving, I mused how easy counting the race would be if all I had to do was count FOUR BIG points instead of 24 little ones.  No more two-digit numbers to add or multiply.

 

Thinking further, it seemed as if this simple scheme would indeed give a good approximation.  Beginning players could benefit by being taught to initially adopt a Quadrant Count, to get a feel for how much they were ahead or behind.

 

Then it hit me.  An expert player could use this absurdly simple counting method, too.  The only other step would be to count the remaining pips in each quadrant!

 

When I arrived home, I set up some backgammon positions.  To the checkers in my home board I assigned a quandrant value of 1, to those in my outer tables 2 or 3, and to my back checkers 4.  Counting the total quadrants was as easy as counting a bearoff in which my checkers were all on the 4, 3, 2 and 1 points.

 

To do full pipcounts, I altered the designations of the quadrants (from 1, 2, 3, 4) to 0, 1, 2, and 3, in order to allow residual pips to be ADDED instead of subtracted.  (A checker on the "22 point" needs to travel THREE (not four) quadrants in order to bear IN, and then 4 more pips to bear OFF).  Hmm... even easier!

 

I started leafing through any backgammon literature I could find which had pipcounts accompanying the diagrams.  At first, I made a lot of silly mistakes, overlooking leftover pips.  But, as I kept practicing, and gradually streamlined the method (in particular, after introducing "squads"), I was astounded to find myself rattling off correct pipcounts in a matter of seconds.

 

A wave of euphoria, bottled up by 25 years of slavish pipcount, washed over me.  I shared the details of my discovery with a friend, Ulf Wostner, who mirrored my enthusiasm by offering to set up a website (see the end of this article) to teach this new method of counting pips.

 

It was Ulf, in fact, who convinced me to dub this system "NACCEL".  I have to admit, I like it.  As I have no children, perhaps I imagine this appellation as some alternate way of spreading my genes.  I think it is only fair to clarify that I attribute neither my psychological imbalance, nor my need to compensate, to any lack of attention from my parents or teachers.  I realize if I were a more naturally modest, decent fellow, I would have insisted on my original name of "Accelerated Pipcount" or even "Speed Counting".  But it is too late to pretend.  Anyway, take your pick.

 

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Other Pipcount Methods

 

The most common way to count total pips is by the "Straight Count".  The number of checkers on each point are counted, weighted by their point numbers from 1 to 24.  If there are two checkers on the "23" point, they count as 46.  Three checkers on the "14" point count as 42, and so on.  These weighted subtotals are added together to determine the total number of pips necessary to bear them all off.  To function as a human calculator can be tedious, though the process does get easier as one gains familiarity with multiples of the point numbers which arise most often.

 

Jack Kissane's "Cluster Counting" improves on straight counting by isolating commonly found checker clusters having pipcount multiples of 10 (or 5).  Mental shifting can produce these clusters (other checkers to be moved the opposite way to compensate), or pips left over are added or subtracted.  Basically, Cluster Counting utilizes several helpful reference clusters with straight counting as a fallback.

 

There are two other interesting pipcount methods which I heard about only after near-completion of this article: 

 

One is Mark Denihan's "Quadrant Crossover" technique (outlined in an article by Mark Driver).  Its basic idea is startlingly similar to one of my prototypes for Naccel:  Count the quadrants, multiply by 6; to count the remaining pips visualize the 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6th points stacked on top of each other, and add the six numbers together.  Obviously, since I did not stick to that blueprint myself, I believe Naccel to be a substantial improvement.

 

The other is Douglas Zare's half-crossover method, which weights 8 half-quadrants ("triples"), and then adds 75 to get an excellent approximate count.  This is a clever idea, as one would expect from Zare, and easier than straight counting.  However, to get an exact count, Zare says it all himself, when he humorously preludes his article with an excerpt from Lewis Carroll's classic:

 

"And you do Addition?" the White Queen asked.

"What's one and one and one and one and one and one and one and one and one and one?"

 

"I don't know," said Alice.  "I lost count".

 

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How does Naccel work?

 

The basic precept for Naccel is that each checker is required to travel through a specific number of QUADRANTS to bear IN, and through a specific number of POINTS to bear them OFF.  One need not identify, let alone multiply, the "19" or "21" point or such -- there is nothing higher than the 6 point!

 

The opening position for Black's checkers is illustrated in Diagram A below.  Black's Quadrants are marked "0", "1", "2", and "3" and "4" for a checker on the roof.  In the text, we will refer to them as "Q0" thru "Q4".  Just as in the counting of points, each unit is a "Pip"; in the counting of Quadrants, each unit is a "Quad".

 

Notice that the Quadrant divisions are shifted one point.  This will be easy to get used to, I promise, and the reason for it is simple:  It is more efficient to count 1:0 ("6-point") checkers as a Quad in and of themselves (or 2, 3 or 4 quads, in the case of the "12", "18" or "24" points), rather than as 0:6 (or 1:6, 2:6, or 3:6), which would mean being saddled with six residual pips for each one.

 

Checkers are pip-defined by the point numbers (0 thru 5) on which they stand -- the number of pips required to bear INTO the next quadrant.  Look at the number AFTER the colon of a notated point; for example, "1:2" has two residual pips.

 

It is difficult to emphasize strongly enough that becoming accustomed to calling the points by their new names will help you enormously in using Naccel.  For purposes of this article, we will refer to points by their new (mod-6) notation, though we will usually list the traditional point numbers in parentheses as a reference.

 

For example, what is classically known as the "10 point", is Quadrant 1, Point 4, so we designate it "1:4".  The "23 point" is Quadrant 3, Point 5, or "3:5".  [Note that multiplying the number before the colon by 6 and adding the number after the colon translates back to the traditional number of any point].

 

Checkers in Q0 will mostly be referred to by their classical name; thus 0:5 can still be called the 5 point.  The "13" point is now "2:1", and the "7" point "1:1", though we will mostly refer to these by their descriptive names, the "midpoint" and "bar point".

 

 

          Diagram A

Okay -- How do we count, using these new-fangled point numbers?

 

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How to do a TOTAL Pipcount

 

·                     Step 1:  Count the number of "Quads".

·                     Step 2:  Add to that the "Squads".

·                     Step 3:  Count any leftover pips.

 

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We will now clarify these steps, as we count Black's starting position (diagram):

 

(1)   Count the checkers in each quadrant, as if they are on four "big points", in order to determine the number of Quads necessary to BEAR IN all our checkers:

 

            The 2 back checkers ("24pt") in "Q4" count 4.  (2 x 4) = 8.

            The 5 checkers (on midpoint) in "Q2" count 2.  (5 x 2) = 10.

            The 8 checkers (6 and "8" pts) in "Q1" count 1.  (8 x 1) = 8.

                                                                        [8 + 10 + 8] = 26.

 

(2)   The three checkers on the 1:2 ("8pt)" are a "Squad" (a 6-pip unit).  26 + 1, that makes 27 altogether.

 

(3)   Count the leftover pips:  The five midpoint checkers each count 1 pip.  5 x 1 = 5.

 

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I have outlined the count in great detail above, but if you had been able to listen to me count under my breath, what you actually would have heard, in a span of three or four seconds, would have been "8..18..26..27, and 5". 

 

An Attentive Reader:  But where is the rest of it??

 

Nack:  "There is no more.  My count is 27:5.  What is yours?

 

Reader:  "Two on the 24 is 48, plus 13 times...65... a hundred and uh.. 13, plus 24.. 137.. and 30.. 167."

 

Nack:  "Perhaps familiarity of the opening points helped, and there were only four of them, but still... 14 seconds... you are pretty fast for a straight counter.  And you got the right answer.  But did I notice you splatter a few beads of sweat as you jittered out the arithmetic?"

 

Reader: (hiding smirk well):  "Well, at least someone has the total now... What good does this 27:5 do you? 

 

Nack:  "Technically, it means 27 Quads + 5 pips.  I am confident that if I multiply the 27 by 6, and add the 5, I will arrive at the same total you got.  But I never have the need, as you will see".

 

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Counting QUADS

 

This stage is quite simple.  Imagine a SPEEDBOARD.  That is the equivalent of what you are counting.  Your quadrants are just big points, counted as 4, 3, 2 and 1.

 

The roof is your "4 point".  The opponent's home board, your "3 point".  The opponent's outer table, your "2 point".  Your outer table, your "1 point".  Your inner board (below the 6-point) doesn't count at all.  So, overall, you have the equivalent of a speedboard with fewer, sometimes far fewer, than 15 checkers!

 

I admit, at least at the outset, that counting will not be as simple as this analogy suggests.  Because the quadrants are shifted one pip, the bar (and board edges) visually hinder the "6", "24" (and the less seen "18" and "12"), point checkers, from being assigned to the proper "points" of your speedboard. 

 

I can assure you, however, that with a basic understanding of the system, and practice, any such confusion will rapidly disappear.  You will find ways to remember; for example, it is easy to toss the "6" point in with the rest of the Q1 checkers when it is its usual conspicuous, towering self.

 

Perhaps the other imperfection in the analogy is that checkers spread out over an entire board are not side by side, as they are in a speedboard, so your eyes have to travel a bit further to count.  What you pay for in distance, though, you are sometimes more than refunded in compactness.  For example, it is faster for me to count an outer 4-prime as 8 checkers, than it is to correctly count 8 checkers on the 1-point.  There is not a big difference either way -- the ability to count the raw number of checkers in a quadrant at a glance is, as you might expect, just a matter of practice.

 

In learning to count your Quads, it makes sense to start on one end and sweep systematically; in this way you can be sure to correctly account for every checker.  I recommend starting with Q4.  Just as you would with a speedboard, count your big "points" (quadrants) first.

 

As you gain confidence, you can improve your speed by selectively combining checkers in different quadrants in the same way you might combine different points of a speedboard.  For example, you know that two checkers each on the 3 and 2 points create a "block" of 10 pips.  In the same way, two checkers each in Q3 and Q2 create a 3322 "block" of 10 quads.  (Hint:  The midpoint checkers are the most common Q2's, by far).

 

One Q-pattern that frequently arises is a checker on the 4-0 ("24") point (or roof), plus an anchor (or two checkers split in the opponent's home board).  This 433 pattern also counts as 10 quads.  Or, the anchor can instead be three on the midpoint, say, to create another useful 10-quad pattern of 4222.

 

Five checkers in Q2 (e.g., on the mid), or 22222, will become as obvious a 10-quad pattern as five checkers on the 2-point is a 10-pip pattern.  Eventually, you can introduce other patterns, such as 222211, or 2221111 (usually combinations of midpoint and "8" point checkers), which occur to you, and the amortized gain will save more time than the initial cost in finding or remembering them at the board.

 

If 10-quad patterns don't fall into your lap, don't fret.  Positions generally range from 12 to 25 total quads, so your options of extracting a convenient block may be limited.  Just retain that image of a speedboard in your mind.  You might be drudging along, counting quadrant by quadrant, until it occurs to you, say, that four on the "2-point" plus four on the "1-point" are like having four on the 1+2 "point".  Similarly, four Q2's plus four Q1's count as 12.  Whatever the pattern is, once you discover it and decide you like it, you can add it to your repertoire.

 

Soon, we will describe the other half of the equation.  Then, we will put the two halves together, and practice full board counts.

 

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Origin of a New Term

 

With Quads quickly counted, what is left?  The answer is:  All the pips which checkers require to bear INTO the next quadrant. 

 

My first system was to scrape these residual pips together into patterns of 10, but eventually it dawned on me that I could allow the geometry of the backgammon board to work in Naccel's favor for this phase of the counting as well.  I have found 6-pip checker groups to be prettier, more manageable, and fit much more naturally onto the board than the 10-pip groups I have subsequently discarded.  Most importantly, the use of 6-pip groups has meant that EVERYTHING can be converted to the equivalent of Quads, with a mere handful (literally, 0-5) of leftover pips.

 

I wanted to think of a catchy name for these 6-pip checker patterns.  "Clusters", which is a more aesthetic name than "Clumps" or "Combos", was already taken, and "Groups" or "Sets" seemed mundane.  "Virtual Quadrants" was descriptive and catchy, but a bit long, and "Virtuals" sounded funny.

 

The next try was to find names that suggested the number six.  Looking for something jazzier than "Hexads", I got sidetracked to mental depths I barely dare to repeat.  The trouble began when "Sex", the Swedish word for six, was suggested to me, and "Sexes" became the prime candidate.  Individual names for "Sex" shapes filled my brain:  Checkers in a block shape became a "box", checkers in a stack a "rod", checkers along the edge a "lay", three on a point a "three-way", and so on.  I even had an animated argument with myself about whether a certain shape looked more like a "spoon" or a "sucker".

 

It is a matter of definition whether I ever recovered my sanity, but it was when the word "Squad" suddenly struck me, that I was jolted out of my Scandinavian fantasy.  A term that suggests tactical deployment upon a battlefield, "Squad" gives life to the checkers, "men"; yet it literally means a group of "people" -- hey, that might even please the feminists (if such a thing is possible).  Also, quadrant rhymes with squadron (close enough), and Quad with Squad.  Clearly these blood brothers are meant to be a tag-team; it seems only natural for "Squads" to take over where "Quads" leaves off.

 

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The Ten Basic SQUAD Patterns

 

The use of "Squads" is nothing more than a system by which to quickly and conveniently count the Residual Pips.  This would include each of the checkers on the 6, 1:6, 2:6 and 3:6 points, except that we had the foresight to shift our quadrant boundaries (one point), thus including them in the Quadcount.  We need only Squadrify the remaining checkers, pip-defined by the point 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 on which they stand.

 

A "Squad" is, basically, any six pips.  The Ten basic Squad patterns are incorporated into Diagrams B1 and B2 below (with a few irrelevant checkers on the 1:0 ("6") points so that you can get used to ignoring them):

 

 

          Diagram B-1

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          Diagram B-2

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Exactly as in the traditional notation system, everything is reversed from Red's point of view.  To get the Red notation for a point (until it becomes second nature), you read the point on the exact FAR SIDE of the board (just as you must do with all classical diagrams).

 

Translated into shorthand, the Ten Basic Squads are:  33, 42, 51, 222, 321, 411, 2211, 3111, 21111, and 111111.  A name and description of each follows:

 

 

·                     (a)  33.  The "PAIR".  Starting with the most obvious pattern, two checkers on the third point of any quadrant add up to 6 pips.  This appears in the top diagram as Black's 3:3 ("21") point, and in the bottom diagram as Red's 3 point.

 

·                     (b)  42.  The "SPLIT" can be thought of as (4+2) = 6, or as two checkers which can be shifted, one a pip forward and the other a pip backward, to form the 3 point.  In the top diagram, Black has a 42 in his home board.  In the bottom diagram, Red's back checkers form a 42.

 

·                     (c)  51.  The "WIDE" (as in wide split).  See top diagram, Red's bearoff.  Again, a mental shift will transform these two blots into her 3 point.

 

·                     (d)  222.  The "DUCK", appears as 3 checkers on Red's 1:2 ("8") point in both diagrams.  Although Q1 is the most common place to find it, 222 can appear in any quadrant.  A "duck" is a short stack of stones marking a cross-country trail.  In backgammon, "ducks" refer to deuces.

 

·                     (e)  321.  The "LAYER":  See Bottom diagram, Black's Q1.  It is easy to see this is the bottom layer of a 321 prime (the "Double Layer").  Whenever we add a layer, we add a unit of Squad.  Other Squad patterns can be easily visualized in combination with (on top of) the Layer.

 

·                     (f)  2211.  The "BLOCK".  See Top diagram, Q1, or bottom diagram, Q0, both Black.  This is a really handy formation.  If doubled in height, it becomes the "Building" (or if tripled, the "Skyscraper").

 

·                     (g)  411.  The "WEDGE".  Bottom diagram, Black's Q2.  As with all basic patterns, these can be combined from separate quadrants; e.g. 3:4 ("22pt") + two on the mid.

 

·                     (h)  3111.  The "TRIANGLE":  Top diagram, Black's Q2.  A good resource for a 3-point checker which can't form a pair, or find a layer.

 

·                     (i)  21111.  The "SOCK":  Top diagram, Red's Q2.  Useful at the end, to round up 1-pointers (midpoint, bar pt, ace pt, roof).  See also the "Stack".

 

·                     (j)  111111.  The "STACK":  Bottom diagram, Red's Q2.  Six checkers on, or symmetrical around any point, convert to an exact number of Squads (in this case, 1).  For example, six checkers on a 5 point count 5 Squads.

 

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Multiple Squad Patterns

 

The most useful Multiple Squads are "isolated" -- those which cannot be constructed by piecing together Singles.  That these Multiples are the Singles' mirror images around the 3 point helps to reinforce the patterns.  (The Pair, Split and Wide above, and the Kicks below, are their own mirror images).  Multiples arise less often than Singles, but are worth their weight in gold because they combine the otherwise clumsy checkers on the 5 and 4 points.

 

The isolated Doubles are 552, 543, 444, 5322 and 4431.  They are illustrated, along with the two Triples of 5553 and 5544, and the one Quadruple of 55554, below in Diagram B-3. 

 

The Quintuple-Squad 555555 ("Big Stack") is the mirror image of one of our basic Squad patterns (the 111111 "Stack"), but is so rare, that I have not depicted it.

 

 

Diagram B-3

·                     (a)  552.  The "FIN", or "Big Wedge" is in Black Q1.  A "fin" is jargon for a five-dollar bill, and this pattern also resembles a shark's fin.  A theme in all multiple-5 formations, The "2" gives one pip to each of the 5's and tips you off that the formation counts 2 Squads.

 

·                     (b)  543.  The "BIG LAYER" (2 Squads), is the mirror image of the 321 Layer (and the same ideas for building up apply).  If you look at Black's home board, you will see a Big Layer partially lurking under other checkers (as layers often do).  Remove it, then take away a "Fin", and you will see that the home board is left only with a "Wide" (51), which comes to a total of Five Squads.

 

·                     (c)  444.  The "FORCE" ("May the fours be with you is a popular backgammon pun"), or "Big Duck" (2 Squads) is in Red Q0.  It is easy to combine checkers from different quadrants, e.g. a 1:4 ("10-point") blot hops forward exactly one quadrant, or over from the 3:4, to stack onto the four point.

 

·                     (d)  4431 and 5322.  The "KICK" (looks like a foot kicking a soccer ball) -- see Red's checkers in both outer boards.  This is the only pattern whose mirror counts the same (2 Squads), hence only one name.  An easy shift (one checker back, the other forth, one pip) transforms either Kick into the 4422 "Double Split".

 

·                     (e)  5544.  The "BIG BLOCK" (3 Squads) is in Black's Q3.  The mirror image of the "Block" (2211), 5544 is great for ridding the least combinable checkers.  If twice as high, it is called the "Big Building".

 

·                     (f)  5553.  The "BIG TRIANGLE" (3 Squads; the "3" part tells you so).  In Black's home board, this can be removed to leave 5421, which I call the "Split Layer" (a combination of the 42 Split and the 51 Wide); it adds 2 more Squads, for a total of 5 Squads in the home board.

 

·                     (g)  55554.  The "BIG SOCK" (4 Squads, as the "4" indicates).  Of all the ways we have counted this particular Black home board, using the Big Sock is easiest.  Left over is simply a Layer (which again brings the count to 5 Squads).

 

"One even, two odd" is a useful rule to apply to all formations, including the Squad Combinations below:  When there is one blot (or a lone checker on top of a primish squad), it is always on an even-numbered point.  If there are two blots, they will both be on odd points.

 

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Squad Combinations

 

Most multiple Squad patterns are combinations of two or more Single ("basic") patterns.  Consider these advanced; knowledge of them is a lower priority than of those illustrated in the "B" diagrams.

 

It is great practice to visualize (or set up) the following combinations, and determine which single (or multiple) patterns they combine.  (Note how the mirror images help to reinforce the patterns).  If you are not in the mood to do so now, feel free to skip this section and come back to it later, or use it as a reference.

 

·                     2 Squads:  4332 = "Hat".  54111 = "Wide Wedge."  441111 = "Double Wedge".  44211 = "Drop-kick".  43311 = "Tandem".  4422 = "Double Split".  5511 = "Double Wide".  5421 = "Split-Layer".  332211 = "Double Layer'.  33222 = "Chair".  3222111 = "Boot".  322221 = "Top Hat".  333111 = "Odds".  22221111 = "Building".

 

·                     3 Squads:  333222111 = "Triple Layer".  433332 = "Big Top Hat".  44433 = "Big Chair".  4433211 = "Truck".  443322 = "Tri-pair".  444222 = "Triple Split".  555111 = "Triple Wide".  55521 = "Wide Fin".  553311 = "Short Odds".  55332 = "Big Tandem".  55422 = "Big Drop-kick".  554211 = "Feet-In".  544221 = "Feet-Out".  543321 = "Sombrero".

 

·                     4 Squads:  555333 = "Big Odds".  555531 = "Wide Triangle".  544443 = "Giant Top Hat".  5543322 = "Big Truck".  55433211 = "W".  444332211 = "Fourplex".  554433 = "Double Big Layer".  55442211 = "Split Blocks" or "Double Split-Layer".  [8-4] Prime = "Special 5-Prime".

 

·                     5 Squads:  5554443 = "Big Boot".  554433222 = "Big Fourplex".  The [1-5] Prime or any "Six-Prime" also counts 5 Squads.

 

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Squadcount Trouble-Shooting Guide

 

This is the final preparation for counting full boards (and also a reference for later).  A comprehensive look at the pitfalls which are possible during a Squadcount will prevent you from being led astray:

 

·                     (1) Far Side confusion:  This is the most likely cause of a miscount.  There can be a tendency, at first, to confuse the middle points in Q2 and, especially, in Q3.  This is because Red's 2 and 3 points are Black's 5 and 4 points, and vice versa. 

 

Remedy:  Until instant recognition sets in, just keep reminding yourself which direction the checkers are traveling for the side you are counting.

 

·                     (2) Shrinkage:  Uncounted checkers disappear as if they were counted.

·                     (3) Ghosting:  Checkers you have taken off the board reappear, causing you to combine/count them again. 

 

Remedy for both:  Sweep systematically, as if you are vacuuming a rug, so that you are less likely to forget or redo a corner.  Avoid darting around, leaving isolated checkers or groups.  If you collect only part of a point, "vacuum" the rest of it as soon as possible.

 

·                     (4) Pattern Confusion:  2111 is too short to be a sock.  432 is a bogus layer.  441 is not a real wedge.  5422 is a footless kick.  3322 or 4433 is a phony block. 

 

Remedy:  Verify that patterns total 6, or a multiple of 6.  Review Diagrams B1 thru B3, and keep practicing your counts.  Getting these patterns right is mainly a matter of repetition; soon, the misfits will just plain look wrong.

 

·                     (5) OverSquads:  With proper combining, these rarely arise, but, occasionally, your final remainder will be more than 6 pips, with no squads available.  These rogue combinations are 322, 431, 441, 443, 522, 532, 553, 544, 5554, 55555, and certain subsets.

 

Remedy:  Review the Multiple Squads section, and focus on combining 5's and 4's first.  Ration low point-count checkers (e.g., midpoint and 1:2).  If you do oversquad, just shift the high checker(s) up to the 6 point, to create a 1-checker squad, or shift to make the 3 point.  For example, 553 or 544 can shift to 661 = 2:1, or 443 becomes 533 = 1:5.  This is a one-time deal, and occurs last; thus, it is easy to add to your (s)quad total.

 

·                     (6)  Crossover Shift:  What appears to be an innocent shift between the "6 point" and a lower point, actually crosses over a quadrant boundary.  (By contrast, note that shifting 1:0 to 1:1 ("6" to "7"), or vice versa, is fine, because that does not cross over).  Similarly, with the "24", "18" or "12" points, though the temptation to shift there is relatively infrequent.

 

Remedy:  Make your shift BEFORE counting the original Quads (and then so as not to forget, start the Quad count from that end).  If you do shift after, subtract 1 Quad if shifting 6-5 (or add a Quad if 5-6).  Or, sometimes you can plug the desired prime holes by "Quad-hopping" (shifting checkers 6 pips), which can be done freely, without burdensome side effects.  The text accompanying Diagram D contains illustrations of this theme.

 

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QUADS and SQUADS -- Putting it All Together

 

Yippee!  It is time to apply the techniques we have learned to count full boards. 

 

Take another look at Diagrams B1, B2 and B3.  Count the Quads, and then add the Squads, as you go, to the Quads (sub)total you got.  Do not convert to pips.  Write down your Quad totals for Black, for Red, and the Quad difference.  Then compare them with the answers, below.

 

[Please note that the term "Quads" refers both to the quadrant units first counted, and also to the combined total of these quadrant units and the Squads added to them.  In context, it is usually easy to see which one is being referred to, but if there is possible confusion, then the terms "Original", or conversely "Combined" (or "Total") can preface].

 

If you feel slow, or lose track of the Naccel procedure, or get the wrong answers, review "How to do a Total Pipcount", "Counting Quads", or the Squad sections, as needed, and try again.

 

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Diagram B-1 -- Black:

 

Quads:  The anchor (which is two checkers in Q3) counts as 6 quads.  The clump of 4 checkers in Q1 is convenient to add to it, because that makes 10.  The three on the 1:0 ("6-pt") are also Q1 checkers (remember), so that's 3 more quads, making 13 so far.  The four checkers in Q2 count 8, for a total of 21 Quads.

 

Squads:  Starting from his back checkers and sweeping around:  Black has a Pair, a Triangle, a Block, and a Split, for a total of 4 Squads.  Adding that to the 21 original Quads, makes 25 Quads altogether.

 

Diagram B-1 -- Red:

 

Quads:  The five in Q2 are nice, that makes 10 Quads.  There are 8 more in Q1, for a total of 18 Quads.

 

Squads:  Starting from the midpoint area:  Red has a Sock, a Duck, and a Wide, for a total of 3 Squads.  That makes 21 Quads altogether.

 

Summary:  Red leads 21 Quads to 25, a difference of 4 Quads.

 

 

Diagram B-2 -- Black:

 

Quads:  Black has three in Q2, which count as 6 quads, plus 8 more in Q1, makes a total of 14 Quads.

 

Squads:  Black has a Wedge, a Layer, and a Block; that's 3 Squads.  That makes 17 Quads altogether.

 

Diagram B-2 -- Red:

 

Quads:  Red's back checkers count 6, the midpoint is 12, plus 5 in Q1, makes 23 Quads.

 

Squads:  Red has a Split, a Stack, a Duck, and a Pair; that's 4 Squads.  That makes 27 Quads altogether.

 

Summary:   Black leads 17 to 27, a difference of 10 Quads.

 

 

Diagram B-3 -- Black:

 

Quads:  Black's back checkers (four in Q3) count 12, plus 3 in Q1, makes 15 Quads.

 

Squads:  Black has a Big Block (counts 3), a Fin (2), a Big Sock (4), and a Layer (1), for a total of 10 Squads.  Added to the 15 Quads, that's 25 altogether.

 

Diagram B-3 -- Red:

 

Quads:  Four Q2 checkers make 8, plus 8 in Q1, makes 16 Quads.

 

Squads:  Red has two Kicks (or two Double Splits by virtue of shifting) -- each counting 2, so that's 4 so far.  The Force in the inner board counts as another 2, for a total of 6 Squads.  Added to the 16, that's 22 Quads altogether.

 

Summary:  Red leads 22 to 25, a difference of 3 Quads.

 

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Counting a Real Game Position

 

Squads are usually not ALL as conveniently arranged as in the B diagrams.  Let us try counting a position which arose in an actual game -- a tricky middle-game example from New Ideas in Backgammon (Woolsey/Heinrich) #21 (p. 60), illustrated below.

 

Admittedly, we would not count this position in live play.  No matter what we discover the race to be, it is too risky to break the anchor and hit with the 6-3 rolled in the actual game.  Nor can either side consider a double based on the race until there is a shot, serious deterioration, or some sort of contact is broken.  We are counting this position purely for practice.

 

Starting with this diagram, I recommend you pull out the original books (if you have them), and open to the page from which I've borrowed the diagrammed positions for this article (or print or photocopy from here).  This will avoid having to scroll your screen or turn pages back and forth in an attempt to follow explanations.

 

One final recommendation, before beginning:  To best benefit from this article, make the effort to understand each adjustment in each step of the full counts offered under each diagram, before moving on.  At first this may seem tedious, but when you catch on, your reward is that your mind will probably feel a bit like a rocketship at takeoff.

 

Again, count on your own (Quads + Squads, and leftover Pips, please).  Write down your steps, and compare your answers to those immediately below the diagram:

 

 

          Diagram C

Diagram C -- Black:

 

·                     Quads:  Two Q3's is 6, plus 12 (in Q1) = 18.

 

·                     Squads:  The 3:3 point is a "Pair", for 19.  The 5544 is a "Big Block" -- that's 22.  The "Duck" makes 23, with just 1 leftover pip (ace point).

 

Diagram C -- Red:

 

·                     Quads:  Two in Q3 and two in Q2 (the 3322 combo) make 10, plus 7 in Q1 makes 17.

 

·                     Squads:  The 3 point "Pair" -- that's 18.  The 5 point plus a 1:2 checker create a "Fin" (counts 2) -- that's 20 -- which leaves a "Block" outside, that's 21.  The 2:4 goes with one of the 3:2 for a "Split", makes 22, with 3 leftover pips (3:2 + mid).

 

 

TOTALS:  So, Black has 23:1, and Red has 22:3.  Red leads by 4 pips.  [If you don't yet see this difference easily, count on your fingers up from 22:3, thusly:  "22:4, 22:5, 23:0, 23:1"].

 

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How did you do?  Your count was wrong?  Okay:  Try to figure out how it happened.  And don't worry.  There's a significant chance that you will make a mistake or two the first few times.

 

I gave a longer solution in the text above, but actually I lucked out and counted Black's entire position in under 3 seconds.  "6..18... wow -- 23, and 1."  Can you guess what I had done?  I had noticed that Quad-hopping the 3:3 point around and inserting it into the 1:3 slot formed the "Big Fourplex" pattern (worth 5 Squads).

 

Before long, squads will jump out at you right and left, even when combined from different quadrants (believe it or not), and you will be counting them as confidently as chairs around a table.  There will be many choices, but finding squads which use up the 5 and 4 point checkers first will retain more flexibility for coralling the rest of the checkers.  You can let that principle guide your sweep, as it did Red in the above position.

 

Red went straight for the 5 point (knocking off the Pair on her way, so as not to leave it isolated), and had a choice of 2-point checkers to combine.  She chose the one outside because it left a Block there, but she could just as easily have grabbed one of the 3:2 checkers, combined the remaining one with the 2:4 (a Split), and shot down the Duck, with 3 one-pointers left over (bar point and midpoint). 

 

An experienced counter would likely see Red's 3:2 point as 4 pips to be combined onto the 2:4 blot, and quad-hop them to the 4-point for a "Six-prime" (5 Squads), with 3 pips left over.

 

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Counting the RACE

 

We utilized the last diagram mainly to practice a full count.  In actual play, the only good reason for needing to know the TOTAL count for both sides (as opposed to just a Comparison count) is in order to decide whether to double, to redouble, or to take or pass a cube in a straight race (or light contact position).

 

Consider the position below.  Should Black double?  Redouble?  Should Red take?

 

Let's start by determining the total count (Quad + Pip format) for both sides.  Do NOT convert the Totals to Pips, only the difference to Pips.  Don't worry:  In the next section, I will show you how to make accurate cube decisions with the same Naccel-style numbers we have been producing, and with greater ease than you have ever experienced with straight pipcounts!

 

 

          Diagram D

Diagram D -- Black:

 

·                     Quads:  Two Q2's (midpoint) is 4, plus 10 (in Q1) = 14.

 

·                     Squads:  The 4 point + 1:2 ("8") point (a great "Double-Split" to know), makes 16, plus a "Layer" makes 17.  The 5 and 1:5 team up with the midpoint for two Wides, making 19.  There are 0 leftover pips.

 

Diagram D -- Red:

 

·                     Quads:  Four Q2's is 8, plus 8 (in Q1) = 16. 

 

·                     Squads:  33222 is the "Chair" (Pair + Duck), for 18.  The 5 point combines with two 1-pointers on the mid for two Wides, that's 20.  There are 5 pips left over (the 3 pt blot + two mids).

 

 

TOTALS:  Black leads 19:0 to 20:5, for a difference of 1:5, or 11 pips.

 

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Before we determine cube decisions, note that this diabolical diagram contains a couple of advanced pitfalls.  Knowledge of the Special 5-Prime (8 thru 4 pts), could be just enough to get you in trouble.  If you shift the 6-point checkers, one forward and the other backward, you have achieved that prime.

 

However, under the Squadcount Trouble-Shooting section, a warning is issued (with explanation).  Shifting from 6